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The Traditional Costume of Grinzing - Set

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  • 18.10.2017
  • Anita Kern
  • Joh. Enschedé Stamps B.V
  • Offset
About The Traditional Costume of Grinzing

The word Grinzing immediately conjures up thoughts of Heurige (small drinking establishments), wine and Wienerlieder (or Viennese songs). Fittingly, there is also a unique Grinzing traditional costume, which is now being presented on a commemorative stamp. Since Grinzing is a classic wine-growing region, this dirndl is also called a traditional wine-maker’s dress. Located at the foot of the Kahlenberg, Grinzing was once a suburb of Vienna. Since 1892 it has been part of Döbling, Vienna's 19th district. The picturesque vineyards and the traditional culture of the Heurige make Grinzing a popular destination for visitors from around the world. The historic centre with the Late Gothic Grinzing Church and the grassy village green still give the place the feel of a village, even if Grinzing is now a popular address for Austrian celebrities.The traditional costume for everyday wear has been known in its current form since the 19th century and was already revived based on historic models around 80 years ago in the inter-war period. Today the stipulations are not too strict. What is special about the dirndl is the cut of the bodice, which is typical of the traditional costumes of Vienna: the right front crosses over the left and buttons at the side. The buttons are also a characteristic decoration, being placed either evenly spaced below one another or with a gap below the top button. This overlapping produces an angular neckline at the front, repeated on the back, which has simple scalloped seams. The neckline, closing edge and scalloped seams are piped. In addition to this asymmetric bodice there is a variant which is laced at the front or back, usually in shades of brown or blue.The everyday dirndl is made from red, blue and white checked cotton or linen, in the past often being made from the remnants of bedding material. The pattern of the skirt, which comes down to around the ankles, can be different. The buttons are mother of pearl. It is worn with a coordinating, plain coloured or lightly patterned apron which hangs about five centimetres below the hem of the skirt and is tied tightly at the waist. A white dirndl blouse with short or mid-length sleeves finishes the costume. A variant for special occasions is made using finer materials such as silk or brocade in light or dark blue with silver buttons and a fine silver edging. However, this costume for special occasions is rarely seen. There is no typical traditional dress for the men of Grinzing. In the wine-growing regions of Lower Austria and Vienna the so-called “Kalmukjanker”, also known as the “Hauerjanker” or wine-grower's jacket, is widespread. Kalmuk is a robust, densely packed cotton or sheep’s wool material (in the past waste fabric was also used to make it), which is used to make jackets for the sailors on the Danube. The jacket is worn in varying cuts, with a raised collar, single or double-breasted. It was originally fastened with mother of pearl buttons. Buttons made from antlers only began to appear in the 20th century.

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