The Portuguese Canning Industry

The search for methods of preserving food has always been, throughout history, one of the main concerns of the human race.

Since the earliest days of preserved sh, especially in Portugal’s case, the Atlantic geography and the piscicultural potentials of its coastline have been decisive factors, as were the traditions of the art of shing and the Mediterranean in uence, particularly during the Roman occupation, through the use of salt in the processes of preserving sh (piscis salsus) and in the production of sh preparations and pastes (salsamenta) of which garum, a pungent salty sauce, was the most prized.

And while in the countries in southern Europe, including Portugal, salt was the most important product, during this embryonic phase of the practices of preservation, from the end of the 18th century and during the 19th century, new contributions and other methods brought about great changes in the way preserved goods were produced.

The pioneering processes of heat sterilisation of food products, in sealed glass containers, by the Frenchman Nicolas Appert in 1795, the rst use of cans to store foods, by Peter Durand, in 1810, followed by the strong impact of the Industrial Revolution on the Portuguese canning industry, through steam systems, acceleration of production rhythms, lithographic printing and the double seaming method for closing cans, were some of the main factors responsible for the evolution of the national canning sector.

The first canning factory producing tuna in oil appeared in 1865, in Vila Real de Santo António, and producing sardines in oil, in Setúbal in 1880, but it was chiefly from the start of the 20 century that the Portuguese coast would witness the installation of new canning units along its length, in particular Matosinhos, Espinho, Aveiro, Peniche, Sines, Setúbal and the Algarve (Lagos, Portimão, Olhão and Vila Real de Santo António) among others, in which sardine, tuna, mackerel and anchovy were the main species used.

Although the manufacturing spaces were quite di erent, the production process for canned sh, in the case of sardines, was guided by a very similar work chain.

After being caught, the sh was taken to the “deheading” room, where the workers proceeded to remove its head and place the body in brine, before engrelhamento (placing the sh on wire trays or grills to allow the liquid to run out) and washing. The tin grills full of raw sardines then went to the autoclaves where they were cooked by steam, according to the “pre-cooked” method.

After drying, in the “ lling” section, women placed the sardines into cans (canning), lling them with olive oil in the azeitadeiras (oiling machines), before proceeding to mechanical sealing in the can seamer. They then returned to the autoclaves, this time for sterilisation, followed by washing, “beating the tin” to verify its airtightness, nally moving on to packaging and placing in wooden crates.

Initially, canned foods were regarded as sustenance for soldiers, due to their enormous consumption during the two World Wars, but they quickly overcame that connotation, becoming (along with wine and cork) one of the symbols of Portuguese exports worldwide. Thanks to their qualities and gastronomic potential in the creation and reinvention of new products and avours, Portuguese canned goods today enjoy an undeniable position of national and international prestige.

José Gameiro
Scientific Director - Museu de Portimão

The CTT Correios de Portugal have found an original way to mark this issue of stamps dedicated to the National Canning Industry.
The idea behind this very special highlight was the inclusion of 50,000 series of these stamps presented inside food cans, specially prepared and screen-printed for the purpose, but otherwise identical to those used with tuna, sardines, mackerel, squid, etc...

This is the rst time that an issue of stamps will be presented to the public “enclosed” in food cans. Collaborating with the CTT on this unusual venture was the oldest cannery still in operation in the world, “Conservas Ramirez”, established in 1853. By happy coincidence, it was the same year that the rst Portuguese stamp appeared: the celebrated “D. Maria II” stamp, brought into circulation on 1 July 1853 in 5 réis and 25 réis versions.

The company “Conservas Ramirez” advised the CTT on choosing the special can and its screen-printing, as well as carrying out the insertion of the stamps into cans, then sealing them in their factory facilities in Matosinhos.